Rattler ticked at last

Heading out into the wind and rain Dan and myself battled our way up Rattler III,4 which was still in good nick. From the top of the main Ice pitches we abseiled back down to the ground instead of swimming up to the summit on easy ground. The main pitch of the route consisted of a series of steep steps which provided difficulty topping out on each of them. We also saw a team on Trojan which was looking in good nick.

Tip off in the Coed Y Brenin Forest

Yesterday I received a tip off of some good climbing which dose not appear in the guide book which I felt couldn't be missed. Today Dan, Jo and myself head over to Rhaeader Mawddach in Coed Y Brenin which I recon went at II/III for about 30m and Pistyll Cain III for about 50m to investigate. Upon arrival things were looking very well formed, the ice was fairly plasticey making climbing very easy. According to a local park warden he recons the falls haven't been climbed for 18years.

Steep Ice in Cwm Silyn

Despite our plans of getting up to Cwm Idwal not working out due to several closed roads stopping us we eventually made it over to Cwm Silyn. Pete, Huw, Dan and myself started to long unrelenting trudge into Cwm Silyn with little idea of what we would find. On arrival a quick scout around found Pete and myself on Colins Gully IV with Huw and Dan on Bedrock gully IV***. Huw and Dan found Bedrock to be very thin and sustained climbing which ended up with dan taking a small tumble on the first pitch but unfazed by this they continued  persevering with the route. Pete and myself had a similar story on Colins Gully where I found myself on some of the steepest ice I have ever lead with the second Ice pitch proving to be very wet on poor ice. With a little more freezing things could be amazing in the Cwm.

Floundering around on Cadair

Today started with the mission of getting my car out before heading over to Minfordd to have a look up in Cwm Cau. Huw and myself initially had a look at East Gully which on a closer inspection was vertical mud climbing so we jumped around the corner and joined Chris and Dan on Little Gully III which had two points of interest with the first being a chockstone and the second a cave which was the only part we roped up for.

Take Two with Take Three to Follow

Its been the Widehorizans Christmas get together over the past few days which was hosted by Tyn Y Berth this year. Zoe who was down for this and dragged all her climbing gear across the country on the train was determined to get out and give something a go. Today saw us battling through the snow to try and get round to the north side of cadair idris although only making it to Dolgellau where we had to walk from, not that we didn't give it our best shot at getting up to Ty Nant but after three attempts we decided it was time to walk. Up on the hill we attempted to climb Rattler a little optimistic I know. Soloing the first pitch I then set off up the second pitch where I got a little higher then I did last Friday before all the Ice decided to part with the mountain which was interesting. Being beaten back on this route we dragged ourselves over to Gwth and climbed the first ice pitch which is a much larger more stable lump of ice which provided much better climbing. Hopefully with a forecast for more cold weather I may get up Rattler latter next week!!!

Trinity Face

 In some hope of finding something in condition Huw and myself set of to have a look on the Trinity face on Snowdon today. We climbed Right hand Trinity II/III3, Ladies Gully III3 and Cave Gully III3/4 all of which were in a climbed condition with the turf well frozen and the snow was not in bad shape either although a little thin in places.

Surveying the damage

A Hill walker risking it on Llyn Y Gader today

Iv been out on Cadair today with Rob and although most of the snow has been striped the stuff that has been left in gully's is bullet hard and the majority of the main ice lines are still there although need some good freezing to bring them back properly. On a more impressive note I found one of my gloves up there which I lost last winter, only to find those ice screws now!!!!

Heat wave has hit!!!

Rattler III4 on Cadair Idris was the aim today and although Dan and myself gave it a good go we were beaten back part way up the second pitch forcing us to down climb (easier said than done) by the waterfall running over the top of the ice down into my jacket and out through my boots much more resembling a gorge walk than a winter climb!!! The ice was still hanging in there but was deteriorating rapidly and the snow had been pretty much all striped at 800m. With all this water around we could be in for some very good climbing if it all freezes hard again in a few days, but for now steer clear!!!

Ramp Cwm Idwal

Iv been out up north today with Jo to climb the Ramp III/II in Cwm Idwal. We joined in with the precession traveling up the Ramp which despite its overcrowding was a fantastic route. Jo who had only climbed one other winter route cruised up the route. Things were looking good up there but with temperatures shooting up tomorrow afternoon may put things out for the weekend but hopefully returning by next week.

Disappointment followed by better things!!!

Following this mornings disappointment of arriving at Little Eiger IV3 to find it not being in nick we shot over to Craig Wen Falls III3* where things were looking much better. Pete and myself  followed by Ross another local climber climbed the falls which could have done with being a little more frozen but never the less gave a good day out.

Passing Maesglasau Falls things were looking busy which could have been something to do with the recent post on UKC increasing its popularity. On this I had a email today from the farmer thanking climbers for calling at the farm first which is very much appreciated by him.

Things are looking good on Cadair Idris

Not having anyone to climb with today I decided to take a walk and see what was in condition. High up on the mountain things were looking very well formed although allot of water was starting to drip due to the rising temperatures. On a more impressive not I saw a team on Cyfrwy and someone down climbing one pitch gully. Plenty of plans for the winter ahead just hope it stays cold!!!

Maesglasau Falls

Today Pete, Chris and myself head over to Maesglasau Falls IV4*** in some hope the overnight freeze had helped keep it in condition. on approach there was still allot of water flowing down which was not promising. With abit of perseverance and a good waterproof we completed the route.

Access Note - Please call at the farm to let the farmer know how many are in the party and again when you leave as he is very twitchy following a incident on the falls a number of years ago. This is a request he asked us to pass around and as there is no public right of way to the falls we need good relations!!!

Arctic Level 1 Coach

This week i am on a BCU level 1 coach training and assessment course at Plas Menai and yes it is freezing. For the past few days we have been spending part of the day in a clasroom with the second part spent at Llyn Padarn in Llanberis. From this location you can see a full view of Snowdan which leaves me longing to be up there and not on a lake The current arctic conditions are causing any water on our clothing to instantly freeze and turn us into some sort of a ice sculpture.

Perfect Winters day on Snowdon

A trek up Snowdon was the order of the day in near perfect conditions, the sun was shining and not a breath of wind. High up on the mountain the recent snowfall is now starting to consolidate and with the continuing cold spell forecast weeks ahead things are looking good for winter climbing routes coming into condition later this week.

Winter Ascent of Tryfan

Today Dan, Alex and myself made a ascent of Tryfan Picking our way up from just behind Milestone Buttress. We put our crampons on and got our axes out low down just so as we could practice moving around on rock although crampons were needed high up on the hill. Winter has really set in up in north wales, will it stay????

Carneddau Navigation Course - Winter has arrived

Iv been out with Huw Gilbert today running a Navigation Course for Rob Johnson high up in the Carneddau. The 4 clients on the course got a little more than they bargained for with full on winter conditions on the hill. Theres been a considerable amount of snow fall over the hills today with temperatures well below freezing and with this forecast to continue it is looking promising for another early welsh winter climbing season.

Winter Skills Courses Now On Sale

Things are shaping up in Scotland with all the early signs of another good winter on its way. SAIS started there avalanche forecast service early due to the early arrival of winter.

My range of winter skills courses are now online. Visit www.verticalworlds.com to book now. I am offering a range of courses Cairngorm winter skills 2 Days, West Highlands winter skills 2 days, Snow Shelter expedition 3 days, Winter Skills 5 days.

SPA Training

The later part of the last week I was working on a SPA training course for members of a local climbing club. Thursday took us to the shores of Llyn Trawsfynydd where personal climbing issues were looked at followed by a trip to Plas Y Brenin for a evening session on there wall. Barmouth slabs was the order of the day on Friday, it is by far the best group crag I have come across which I visit on a regular basis with groups. The only down side is it gets very busy although the crag is very extensive so a spot can always be found.

Peak Mineing/Caveing

Early monday morning pete, rob and myself jumped in a van and raced over to the peak district for some caving. We had plans to head down P8 Jackpot which is a classic underground trip. Arriving in the car park we head out across the fields to find a manway in a depression in the ground. Lifting the lid we were alarmed as to the steepens of the entrance shaft as nothing was mentioned in our guide, but nether the less we continued on. After some half hour things still were not adding up and we came to a tight squeeze which we all had a go at but all unable to fit through. at this point it dawned upon us we were in the wrong hole!!! We had actually gone down P7. Back up on the surface we found our intended cave P8 which was a fantastic but very wet requiring some small amounts of technical ropework. Following day our plan was to head down Rota Hole which involved a 68m decent down a vertical shaft. Arriving at the top pete head down first with his light disappearing into the depths of the mine. All now down in the mine we found a few other roped SRT sections which we explored. Having explored the mine it was now time for the long SRT back out and long it was back up 68m shaft which took around 25min each.

WGL Training Course

Over the past week I have been working on a WGL training course for teachers wanting to start providing DofE in there schools. Due to the fact the WGL syllabus dose not require a expedition to take place during training and the main purpose of the course was DofE there LEA requested a bolt on expedition to this course. The course kicked off monday lunchtime with a introduction to the scheme followed by a intro to navigation and route planning lecture. Tuesday saw us heading out into the winds up onto Trawsfynydd to put this into practice. Due to forested high winds on thursday night we decided to bring the expedition forwards to wednesday night where we head north to Graig Wen with a camp overlooking Llan Festiniog. Both days were spent on navigation and other aspects of the syllabus with a roundup to the week on friday sending the team out at Bwlch Oeddrws navigating on a pre set orienteering course.

Yet Another Mine

Yes I have been down yet another mine, ticking them off ready for assessment and even starting to get into it now!!!! Aberllyfeni slate mine was the aim of the day, which is probably the closest to home yet the most impressive out of the lot. To get deep down into the mine we had to descend a pair of ladders around 50m long into the darkness.

Cwmorthin with a hungover giant

Today Dan, Alex and myself head down into Cwmorthin slate mine. Both Dan and myself had been down this mine a few times before and were keen to explore further ground. Our plan was to head up into some of its higher levels something we did not find possible due to collapses and technical approaches. After exploring as much as we could we head down deep into the mine which was partly flooded before heading out using one of the old bridges.

Winter Is On Its Way!!!

I awoke to the first frost of the year today and im sure along with the whole world of winter climbers I started thinking about the prospects of the coming winter, will it be as good as the last??? This frost inspired rob and myself to bring our axes and crampons out of summer hibernation and head out for some climbing!!!! I hear you asking "what"? Well it may have been cold but not that cold so we improvised using a coniferous tree. Setting a top rope up we both blasted up and down training in some hope of another good winter.

Wet Mine Exploration

Lurking in Till Hill forestry in Corris Uchaf are the old workings of Tyn Y Berth mine. I have walked passed the gaping vegetated looking holes many a time and wonders what was down there. Over the past few months I have been down all 4 with Dan completing the final one today. Access into all of the 4 involved some sort of a abseil and SRT back out. Todays involved a initial 20m abseil followed by another 30m of vertical waterfall. There were addits leading off in either direction with the first being chest deep water leading to a collapse and the second leading into a fair sized chamber. Just to ensure we were wet enough the slow SRT up a waterfall gave us all a complete soaking.