Security on Steep Ground

Today I have been out on Cadair Idris running a session on security on steep ground and scrambling. We were blessed with a crisp clear day which was a amazing day to be out on the hill. The day started off with looking at offering others unroped support before moving on to introducing a rope. We then put this into practice by taking a direct line up from Llyn Cau to the summit before heading back down over Mynydd Moel.

Indian Himalayas

Over the past month I have been working for World Challenge Expedition Australia on an experiential learning expedition in the Indian Himalayas. The idea of the expedition is for the students to take charge of the trip with myself overseeing this and taking charge of all technical issues. The expeditions had a number of phases with the first section seeing us heading up to Mussoorie which is a mountain hill station based at 2000m where we spent 3 days doing some day treks to acclimatise. Following this we travelled further north to start our main trek which was a 6 day trek to the top of the Rantham Pass which lays at 4000m with stunning 360 views of the surrounding peaks. With the students being from Australia they had not see snow before which was a highlight for many. Following the end of the trek it was time for some rest where we took a white 24k water rafting trip down the river Gangies before heading to Agra to visit the Taj Mahal and then on to the pink city of Japure. During our time in Japure we undertook a community project at a local school where we helped out with some construction work. India for me was a amazing eye opening country which I am looking forwards to returning to and hopefully venturing further into Himalayas next time.

Off To Catch The Sun

Just as soon as things started to look wintry it all disappeared again, this is something I'm quiet glad about as I am about to jet off to India for the next month this evening. I am going to be working for World Challenge Expeditions leading a experiential learning expedition for a Australian school group of 14 students.

The expedition will consist of a number of parts, we are to make a accent of Ranthan Pass in the Himalayas during our 10 days of trekking,  2 day white water rafting trip down the river Gange, undertake a community project in Rajasthan where the team will help construct a much needed wall around a local primary school as well as teaching in the school and to wrap the trip up some time to rest and relax visiting some of the tourist sights of India including Taj Mahal and visiting the pink city of Jaipur.

During this time I will only have limited access to Internet so any enquires may take a little time to respond to. I still have a number of spaces on 2012 Winter Skills Courses www.verticalworlds.com bookings available online or via post. (Please not postal bookings will not receive confirmation until after 15th January unless you email as well)

Looking forwards to returning and starting 2012 Winter Skills season.

What a difference a year can make

This time last year the UK was in a firm grip of the Arctic weather system where the world of winter climbing was at its peak in North Wales, a year ago today I climbed the fantastic Maesglasau Falls where as today the temperature is near touching double figures.
http://nickmortley.blogspot.com/2010/12/maesglasau-falls.html

This being said things are forming up nicely in the Scottish highlands laying down a good base for the upcoming winter season. To be totally honest I feel a little sigh of relief that things are not in top shape in North Wales and not looking likely anytime soon as I am about to jet off to the Indian Himalayas until mid January leading a expedition and couldn't bar the the reports of North Wales winter classics being ticked.

Winter Preperation

With the lack of winter arriving in North Wales as of yet Huw and myself decided to get some pre season training in. Huw excitedly called me (as if to tell me that all of the winter routes on Cadair Idris had formed up without us realising) that he had found a first class dry tooling venue in a slate quarry close by. We both scrambled up over the slate tips to be confronted with a massive retaining wall which looked climbable all over. Huw set off up the wall which was very reminiscent of climbing a busy ice fall as we were showered with peaces of crumbling slate falling from the face being knocked by huw and the ropes. Huw with his new tools made little effort of climbing to the top before my go was up. This felt more intimidating than finding yourself on some unprotected climb on the north face of the Ben to me being showered by peaces of louse slate. Huw unfazed by this got back on to take a harder line until darkness struck. I think I'm going to wait for winter to arrive!!!

Denali 2012

Over the past few years I have been talking with a few mates about the possibility of heading out to Alaska to climb Denali 6194m/20320ft (Mount Mckinly), well we have eventually got our acts together and put together a strong team of 7 climbers to make a attempt on the mountain.

Denali is sometimes reffed to as the hardest of the 7 summits of the world to climb due to its extreme northern location making it the Coldest & Stormiest mountain in the world, the team will need to be prepared to endure temperatures as low as -40 degrees C driven on winds of 100mph whilst on the mountain. Due to its extreme northerly location the air is much thinner making it comparable to climbing a 7000m mountain in the Himalayas. We plan to make a attempt on the West Buttress and if all goes well followed by the West Rib.

We will flight to Anchorage in Alaska where we will stock up on a months supply of food before heading up to Talkeetna where we will be taken into the mountains by air and dropped off on the Kahiltna Glacier with all of our supplies weighing around 50kg. We will be traveling around on skis transport this load in a sled and rucksack utilising a back carry method when needed. This basically means carrying half of your kit up high before returning the next day for the second half. Lots of logistical planning at endurance training to come before we head of in May 2012

Teaching Multi Pitch Climbing

Over the past 4 days I have been out with Kaylegh teaching her multi pitch climbing. With the weather as its been its hard to believe its the beginning of November with the weekend seeing Cristal blue sky's and sun blessed rock well it would have been if we were not on north facing crags. We kicked off on Saturday at Milestone Buttress climbing Rowan Route followed by Direct Route with prity much the crag to ourselves. Sunday saw us heading into Cwm Idwal were we climbed on the slabs up Hope and then Charity where we looked at belay construction, still only one team on the slabs all day despite the fantastic weather. With not such a good forecast on Monday we decided to meet at Tremadog although awaking to a Cristal clear alpine like morning we trusted the forecast and continued with our plans and climbed Hail Bebe, Oberon & Sheer Khan R-hand where you could see the weather had turned in the mountains. With a similar forecast on Tuesday we went to another favorable venue for bad weather being Clogwen Yr Oen in the Moelwynion rounding off the 4 days with Slick, Slack & Kirkus Direct. 4 fantastic days climbing in November without a drop of rain touching us.