Friday 25 November 2011

Denali 2012

Over the past few years I have been talking with a few mates about the possibility of heading out to Alaska to climb Denali 6194m/20320ft (Mount Mckinly), well we have eventually got our acts together and put together a strong team of 7 climbers to make a attempt on the mountain.

Denali is sometimes reffed to as the hardest of the 7 summits of the world to climb due to its extreme northern location making it the Coldest & Stormiest mountain in the world, the team will need to be prepared to endure temperatures as low as -40 degrees C driven on winds of 100mph whilst on the mountain. Due to its extreme northerly location the air is much thinner making it comparable to climbing a 7000m mountain in the Himalayas. We plan to make a attempt on the West Buttress and if all goes well followed by the West Rib.

We will flight to Anchorage in Alaska where we will stock up on a months supply of food before heading up to Talkeetna where we will be taken into the mountains by air and dropped off on the Kahiltna Glacier with all of our supplies weighing around 50kg. We will be traveling around on skis transport this load in a sled and rucksack utilising a back carry method when needed. This basically means carrying half of your kit up high before returning the next day for the second half. Lots of logistical planning at endurance training to come before we head of in May 2012

Wednesday 9 November 2011

Teaching Multi Pitch Climbing

Over the past 4 days I have been out with Kaylegh teaching her multi pitch climbing. With the weather as its been its hard to believe its the beginning of November with the weekend seeing Cristal blue sky's and sun blessed rock well it would have been if we were not on north facing crags. We kicked off on Saturday at Milestone Buttress climbing Rowan Route followed by Direct Route with prity much the crag to ourselves. Sunday saw us heading into Cwm Idwal were we climbed on the slabs up Hope and then Charity where we looked at belay construction, still only one team on the slabs all day despite the fantastic weather. With not such a good forecast on Monday we decided to meet at Tremadog although awaking to a Cristal clear alpine like morning we trusted the forecast and continued with our plans and climbed Hail Bebe, Oberon & Sheer Khan R-hand where you could see the weather had turned in the mountains. With a similar forecast on Tuesday we went to another favorable venue for bad weather being Clogwen Yr Oen in the Moelwynion rounding off the 4 days with Slick, Slack & Kirkus Direct. 4 fantastic days climbing in November without a drop of rain touching us.