Monday 27 December 2010

Rattler ticked at last


Heading out into the wind and rain Dan and myself battled our way up Rattler III,4 which was still in good nick. From the top of the main Ice pitches we abseiled back down to the ground instead of swimming up to the summit on easy ground. The main pitch of the route consisted of a series of steep steps which provided difficulty topping out on each of them. We also saw a team on Trojan which was looking in good nick.

Sunday 26 December 2010

Tip off in the Coed Y Brenin Forest

Yesterday I received a tip off of some good climbing which dose not appear in the guide book which I felt couldn't be missed. Today Dan, Jo and myself head over to Rhaeader Mawddach in Coed Y Brenin which I recon went at II/III for about 30m and Pistyll Cain III for about 50m to investigate. Upon arrival things were looking very well formed, the ice was fairly plasticey making climbing very easy. According to a local park warden he recons the falls haven't been climbed for 18years.

Wednesday 22 December 2010

Steep Ice in Cwm Silyn



Despite our plans of getting up to Cwm Idwal not working out due to several closed roads stopping us we eventually made it over to Cwm Silyn. Pete, Huw, Dan and myself started to long unrelenting trudge into Cwm Silyn with little idea of what we would find. On arrival a quick scout around found Pete and myself on Colins Gully IV with Huw and Dan on Bedrock gully IV***. Huw and Dan found Bedrock to be very thin and sustained climbing which ended up with dan taking a small tumble on the first pitch but unfazed by this they continued  persevering with the route. Pete and myself had a similar story on Colins Gully where I found myself on some of the steepest ice I have ever lead with the second Ice pitch proving to be very wet on poor ice. With a little more freezing things could be amazing in the Cwm.

Sunday 19 December 2010

Floundering around on Cadair

Today started with the mission of getting my car out before heading over to Minfordd to have a look up in Cwm Cau. Huw and myself initially had a look at East Gully which on a closer inspection was vertical mud climbing so we jumped around the corner and joined Chris and Dan on Little Gully III which had two points of interest with the first being a chockstone and the second a cave which was the only part we roped up for.

Friday 17 December 2010

Take Two with Take Three to Follow



Its been the Widehorizans Christmas get together over the past few days which was hosted by Tyn Y Berth this year. Zoe who was down for this and dragged all her climbing gear across the country on the train was determined to get out and give something a go. Today saw us battling through the snow to try and get round to the north side of cadair idris although only making it to Dolgellau where we had to walk from, not that we didn't give it our best shot at getting up to Ty Nant but after three attempts we decided it was time to walk. Up on the hill we attempted to climb Rattler a little optimistic I know. Soloing the first pitch I then set off up the second pitch where I got a little higher then I did last Friday before all the Ice decided to part with the mountain which was interesting. Being beaten back on this route we dragged ourselves over to Gwth and climbed the first ice pitch which is a much larger more stable lump of ice which provided much better climbing. Hopefully with a forecast for more cold weather I may get up Rattler latter next week!!!

Wednesday 15 December 2010

Trinity Face


 In some hope of finding something in condition Huw and myself set of to have a look on the Trinity face on Snowdon today. We climbed Right hand Trinity II/III3, Ladies Gully III3 and Cave Gully III3/4 all of which were in a climbed condition with the turf well frozen and the snow was not in bad shape either although a little thin in places.

Monday 13 December 2010

Surveying the damage


A Hill walker risking it on Llyn Y Gader today

Iv been out on Cadair today with Rob and although most of the snow has been striped the stuff that has been left in gully's is bullet hard and the majority of the main ice lines are still there although need some good freezing to bring them back properly. On a more impressive note I found one of my gloves up there which I lost last winter, only to find those ice screws now!!!!

Friday 10 December 2010

Heat wave has hit!!!

Rattler III4 on Cadair Idris was the aim today and although Dan and myself gave it a good go we were beaten back part way up the second pitch forcing us to down climb (easier said than done) by the waterfall running over the top of the ice down into my jacket and out through my boots much more resembling a gorge walk than a winter climb!!! The ice was still hanging in there but was deteriorating rapidly and the snow had been pretty much all striped at 800m. With all this water around we could be in for some very good climbing if it all freezes hard again in a few days, but for now steer clear!!!

Wednesday 8 December 2010

Ramp Cwm Idwal


Iv been out up north today with Jo to climb the Ramp III/II in Cwm Idwal. We joined in with the precession traveling up the Ramp which despite its overcrowding was a fantastic route. Jo who had only climbed one other winter route cruised up the route. Things were looking good up there but with temperatures shooting up tomorrow afternoon may put things out for the weekend but hopefully returning by next week.

Tuesday 7 December 2010

Disappointment followed by better things!!!

Following this mornings disappointment of arriving at Little Eiger IV3 to find it not being in nick we shot over to Craig Wen Falls III3* where things were looking much better. Pete and myself  followed by Ross another local climber climbed the falls which could have done with being a little more frozen but never the less gave a good day out.


Passing Maesglasau Falls things were looking busy which could have been something to do with the recent post on UKC increasing its popularity. On this I had a email today from the farmer thanking climbers for calling at the farm first which is very much appreciated by him.

Monday 6 December 2010

Things are looking good on Cadair Idris

Not having anyone to climb with today I decided to take a walk and see what was in condition. High up on the mountain things were looking very well formed although allot of water was starting to drip due to the rising temperatures. On a more impressive not I saw a team on Cyfrwy and someone down climbing one pitch gully. Plenty of plans for the winter ahead just hope it stays cold!!!

Sunday 5 December 2010

Maesglasau Falls

Today Pete, Chris and myself head over to Maesglasau Falls IV4*** in some hope the overnight freeze had helped keep it in condition. on approach there was still allot of water flowing down which was not promising. With abit of perseverance and a good waterproof we completed the route.

Access Note - Please call at the farm to let the farmer know how many are in the party and again when you leave as he is very twitchy following a incident on the falls a number of years ago. This is a request he asked us to pass around and as there is no public right of way to the falls we need good relations!!!

Wednesday 1 December 2010

Arctic Level 1 Coach

This week i am on a BCU level 1 coach training and assessment course at Plas Menai and yes it is freezing. For the past few days we have been spending part of the day in a clasroom with the second part spent at Llyn Padarn in Llanberis. From this location you can see a full view of Snowdan which leaves me longing to be up there and not on a lake The current arctic conditions are causing any water on our clothing to instantly freeze and turn us into some sort of a ice sculpture.